Hot Springs in Tuscany

     One of my dreams was to go to the thermal hot springs that are bubbling up all around Tuscany.  It's been 90 degrees in Florence and my Italian classes had ended, so I took advantage of the time to head to the country!  Nic had to finish her fashion classes, and none of my other friends in Italy could come, so I went solo.

     I wanted to make this as minimally stressful as possible, so I took the train to Siena and rented a car on the outskirts of the city.  There were no cars available in the category I wanted, so I got an upgrade to a little Mercedes, or at least that's what the rental man said.  Of course, I rented a GPS system, too and of course, I got lost right away as I headed out of the city.  The GPS system was useless because there were no street addresses where I was going--Petriolo Thermal spa, but my Hertz rental man gave me some directions and I found my way.
    Petriolo is a place in Pari where two rivers meet and there are natural hot springs there, but I went to the spa across the river.  Petriolo Spa is a gorgeous multi-layered structure built into the side of a gorge.  There are terraces that overlook the river valley,  little fountains, two big outdoor pools--one a thermal hot pool and the other a cool pool with bubbling jets--and there's an indoor hot thermal pool.  The thermal pools are sulfurous, but the smell is not too overpowering.
     My heart sank when I saw that most of the people around the pool were in couples, but after I had changed into my bathing suit, I found a comfortable chaise lounge and decided to enjoy my own company.  The hot sulfurous water penetrates muscles and bone and allows one's body to relax.  So, I would dip in and out of the hot and cool pools.  I had a great book to read and ordered tea and biscotti from a little bar by the side of the pool.  A nice young woman brought it over to me on a tray spread with white linen!  I felt very much taken care of.
     I decided to be social and began talking to a woman whom I assumed was Italian, but she was actually Robin from New Jersey on a honeymoon with her husband, Brendan.  The hardest part for me, in being alone, is eating alone and at 7:30 (very early for dinner by Italian standards), I went to one of the two restaurants open--Erica-the health food one.  I was the first one and only one.  A handsome Italian man who was with what looked like his mother came and sat at the next table.  I raised my water glass to toast them with a "Salute!" after their wine came.  We all sat in semi-comfortable silence.   Just then, Robin and Brendan from New Jersey sat down at the next table and invited me to join them.  It was at that point when the Italian man began talking to me in English.  We chatted a bit and then I politely excused myself in Italian and joined Robin and Brendan at their table and after we went out on the terrace under the stars to have some wine and dessert!  I made a mental note to always remember the kindness they showed me and to pay it forward by extending the same invitation to any person  I ever see sitting alone near me in a restaurant.  Two other women--one from Queens and one from Brooklyn, came and joined us and another couple from Ohio.  We had a raucous time.

    The next morning, after an overpriced, but very nice massage, I hit the road for Saturnia, about 1 and a half hours southeast in the middle of nowhere. The extremely helpful concierge had given me another set of directions to Saturnia, and again I got lost, but found my way by following signs to Grosetto, Scansano and then Saturnia.  (I would highly recommend the Petriolo Spa if you have some money to spend, by the way.)
   The drive in that area is absolutely stunning--bridges, high winding roads over green mountains (did I mention I have a fear of heights?)  I just talked myself through my fear, breathed, sang, enjoyed the views and squirted Rescue Remedy into my mouth whenever I came out of a switchback.
     Saturnia thermal hot springs is a natural phenomena north of Rome-- there are many photos of the water gushing out of the hill and creating cascades and little pools.  It's a public place, though, and up close, there is some litter and lots of people.  I still had fun crawling from pool to pool.
After, I stayed at the Hotel Saturno Fonte Puro, a little place with a small thermal pool--much more modest than Petriolo Spa.  Again- I was the only single person among couples--much older Italian couples.  It gave me a chance to practice my Italian, relax and walk down an old country road.